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Out from the Indian Ocean a goose-bump-breeze blows the old sorrowful secrets of this town into the ears of the sparse travelers. Life-rags of a time long long gone, a time when world-history paid a short visit to this town, breathing in a bit of colonial life

... only to decay into a laming lethargy all of a sudden again soon after.


Sometimes nature has a firm grip on what humans once built!


The old German customs building right at the coast.


Today the rotting vapours of putrefaction waver through the ruined houses

of this morbid beauty of a town.


Past the stinking fish-market, through the frames of the wooden ship's hulls

constructed in the same way as centuries ago, also past the gallows-memorial.


The German Boma, originally planned to be the government building for German East Africa before the capital was changed from Bagamoyo to Dar es Salaam.


The deep orange light of the cheaky setting sun twinkles

through the fleshless carcass of the old "German Boma".


Town houses of the Arabic, German and English aliens have gone to racks, long since the bewitchingly rich blossoming trees have conquered rooms in which once glamourous feasts were celebrated, where people loved, mourned ...

only the beautifully carved wooden doors hanging crooked in the hinges bring back memories of an old era, of a different life.


Beautifully carved door - the DHL office.


Arabic blackbirders traded their "black African gold" who "laid their hearts down" here with no hope of ever returning to their home lands.

But everybody else was here as well: German and English colonialists romantically-gone astray, adventurers, Burton, Speke, Stanley ... even Livingstone - but dead as a dodo just before his heartless corpse was shipped to his non-home England.


Gretchen died after only six days ... what made her parents come to Africa sometime before 1900? How did their story continue afterwards?


Even Gretchen, "Our beloved child" who saw life for only six days

... back then in February 1900 ...


Gretchen was born on this very day 116 years ago.



2 thoughts on “Bagamoyo

    1. Juliane und Mischa Post author

      Hi Charles, we are fine … but due to a lot of rain rushed through to Namibia … Kenya, and especially the evening with you guys was gorgeous! Hope to meet you again soon. All the best from Windhuk, Juliane, Mischa, Anouk and Sóley


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